Why We’re Entering a New Wine Era

… According to the woman who has watched the consumer market evolve for decades

Has the world fallen out of love with wine?

Amid generational and demographic shifts, economic pressures and tariffs, rising health and wellness concerns, and ever-greater beverage choices, it’s no wonder that U.S. wine sales fell 6% and global consumption reached the lowest levels seen since 1961.

The easy answer is: yes. The more nuanced answer is: it’s complicated.

“What I’m starting to see in the market, especially among young people, is actually very positive,” Dr. Liz Thach says. “The youngest segment of the market as always been the most challenging and important wine market for producers because they have the longest time horizon.”

Thach, master of wine, author, and distinguished professor emerita of wine at Sonoma State University, should know. She has spent the last three years locking in on decades worth of research on wine consumption and levels of interest as president of the Napa-based Wine Market Council (WMC).

Thach, who is retiring from her role as president effective August 5, has overseen a 70% increase in membership and an impossible to quantify expansion of the WMC’s role in wine culture as a whole.

“I am most proud of the impactful annual research we do,” Thach says. “We have been doing it for 30 years, but because when I joined as president we built a social media presence for the first time and began actively reaching out to members of the media, there is much more awareness now.”

Teasing Out Essential Insight for the Wine Industry

Indeed, the WMC’s survey of 5,000 U.S. consumers has become required reading for the membership’s vintners, growers, retailers, importers, and global wine marketing bodies, but also anyone tangentially connected to the industry. Under Thach’s guidance, nonprofit 501(c)(6) organization has become the leading source of market research on what people want in their wine glass.

And the members—and many onlookers in the wine business—who use the findings strategically, tend to outpace their colleagues in sales, she says.

“There have been fascinating, actionable takeaways from the surveys,” Thach says. “One of the most surprising to me and many of our members is that nearly half—46%—of American consumers believe winemakers add sugar to their wine.”

It was clear from the survey, Thach says, that people are looking for more than pictures of old chateaus or cute creature features on labels.

“They want transparency,” she says. “They want to know there’s no sugar, what the ingredients are, and nutritional information is great too.”

Clearly, the market—especially the younger consumer—is trending toward more information, less alcohol, fewer additives. And fresher flavors.

“They want crisp, light, refreshing options,” Thach says. “Instead of higher-alcohol reds, they want aromatic white blends that have low-ABV.”

Producers, like Josh Cellars, that respond to the intel with products that meet the market needs, see their sales soar.

Josh Cellars Seaswept, which was specifically created to appeal to millennial and Gen Z consumers, released a white blend that grew 64% in its second year on the market, depleting more than 300,000 cases. (They recently released a sparkling version).

Thach’s passion for wine, and the business of selling it, is palpable. Which is why when I received news of her retirement in my inbox, I was genuinely shocked.

Looking Ahead to an Exciting Growth Opportunity

But Thach is confident she’s leaving the WMC, and the industry, in a great place.

“Younger people love to drink wine,” Thach says. “We’ve been reaching Millennials for years now. They want less but better, and they’re willing to pay for it, which I love.”

And the most recent numbers from the IWSR show, she points out, that Gen Z is right behind them, increasing the percentage of the drinking population in the U.S. from 13% to 17%.

“Like Millennials, members of Gen Z are mindful, thoughtful consumers, who want wines made with intention and care for the environment and people,” Thach. “Most winemakers are already doing the work. They just need to be better about communicating it.”

While that will no longer be her day-to-day responsibility after retiring from the WMC, she thrilled to welcome Michelle Egan as the next powerhouse to inspire bottom-line boosting change in the way wine is sold across the world.

“She’s going to be great,” Thach enthused. “She is based in Napa and has decades of experience in sales, marketing, and brand strategy.”

Egan, indeed, has an impressive resume: she has worked in top marketing roles at Gallo, Constellation, Terlato, and later, her own enterprise, Egan Wine Consulting.

I’m excited to see what Egan—and Thach—do.

Because while Thach is stepping down from the WMC, she is hardly hanging up her hat.

“I’m still going to write and teach,” she says. “Maybe another book. We’ll see.”

Having exchanged a few war stories (off the record) with Thach across time and space, I know she has some good tales to tell. I’ll wait for the memoir. And in the meantime, I’ll be eagerly awaiting the next WMC report—as will many others in the rapidly evolving wine business.